A press release from Organic Monitor has revealed a growth
in popularity for cosmetic products labelled as “paraben-free”. In its new Technical Insights report, OrganicMonitor finds the move to new alternative preservative
systems is driven by high consumer demand for natural and organic cosmetics as
well as the growing trend of formulators avoiding parabens.
Parabens are the most widely used preservatives, present in
thousands of personal care products that include moisturisers, shampoos,
toothpastes, lubricants, and gels. However, a growing number of formulators are
avoiding them because of possible safety concerns. Although not scientifically
proven, there is a belief that parabens may be linked to breast cancer. The
French and Danish governments are considering a ban on parabens in cosmetic products
because of these possible links and it is these possible bans that have led to
meaning cosmetic companies looking for alternatives.
According to Judi Beerling, technical director at Organic
Monitor, “many companies are using preservative systems that comprise
multifunctional natural ingredients”. By using such ‘synergistic blends’, the
material has anti-microbial properties whilst not having to be registered as a
preservative with the respective authorities. Examples of such preservative
systems include blended botanical extracts and spice extracts.”
Natural and organic products have traditionally used natural
preservatives like grapefruit seed extract, however new materials and technologies
are gaining acceptance.
Another development is self-preservation techniques, with
some methods originating from the food industry. Hurdle technology involves
creating hurdles to block growth of micro-organisms in cosmetic formulations;
for instance, using materials that reduce the pH of the formulation. Some
companies are adding emollients with membrane-disrupting properties in cosmetic
formulations, while others are boosting natural preservative systems by the use
of chelating agents or a glycol.
There are still a number of issues that need to be addressed
when it comes to creating natural and organic products. One of the key factors
preventing the widespread use of alternative preservatives is that synthetic
preservatives are more cost-effective but the recent launch of a number
alternative ingredients at global trade show In-cosmetics has shown that the
industry is taking note of what the consumer wants and developing raw materials
to address these concerns.
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